Sunday, September 27, 2015

Salton Sea: From Accidental Oasis to Poison Pit

We are now on our way from Northern Arizona to San Diego. Tim has never been to Palm Springs so we're taking advantage of the off-season to stay at a few nice resorts along the way. It is hot here and we drive around in the car to stay cool. We decided to take a day trip around the Salton Sea.

The Salton Sea happened as an accident in 1905 and became the largest lake in California. For 18 months the banks of the Colorado River overflowed and water rushed from three ill designed irrigation canals into this basin that lies 226 feet below sea level - only a 5 foot difference from Death Valley. Vacationers from Palm Springs came to see waterfront property in the desert! In the 1950's and 60's the area flourished with hotels and marinas; waterskiers and fishermen.

By the 1980's, Salton Sea is a health hazard. Water is evaporating and what is left behind are salt, muck, and stench of dead birds, fish, and waste - both environmental and human. The New River flows north from Mexicali and brings with it untreated sewage. It is an abomination. 

Why would we even stop? This was one of those places I had always heard about growing up in San Diego. I thought maybe we had been there as children but my brother assured me we had not.



At Bombay Beach, many homes and trailers had been abandoned and fenced. Amazingly, we saw some people milling about the residences. The smell was horrific. It reminds me of Tammy's favorite show: The Walking Dead. Except no zombies.


A few miles east of Salton Sea is another gem: Slab City. During WWII General Patton practiced war games in this area - even Enola Gay flew over from Nevada to practice bomb drops nearby. What remains are slabs of concrete where snowbirds could park their RV's. For Free! It remains a free for all with no rules, no water, no sewer, no electricity. Nada. Nothing. We will never stay here. but it sure was a unique place to see. It was a bit of a train wreck.


Many come and stay for years off the grid. It is Mad Max meets I don't know what. Certainly not Burning Man. Sadly, I think during the hot months it is mostly drug addicts, people with mental health issues, and those wanting to live without any law or order. Not all however are destitute, but they are all squatters, living in the last free place in America. There is somewhere for everyone.

This is Soul Tree so named for all the shoes hanging from it's branches.


Upon reaching Slab City your first sight is Salvation Mountain, a 30 year ongoing project. Bring him a can of paint or two when you visit.




Slab City has full time residents, hobos, and snowbirds. Some people are ingenious using solar power and creating works of art out of garbage.  I understand visitors return year after year to experience the music and to see friends they've made. Once the temps hit triple digits only the hardy remain. If you visit, and you should, also see East of Jesus. There is an interesting art exhibit made from garbage.

America is an amazing place. The good, the bad, and the ugly. It is ours to behold and experience.

On a lighter note, this is our friend in our RV Park. We call him Broke Beak. He rules the roost. I found out that hummingbirds have a tongue! It has ridges that allow the nectar to be swallowed by the bird. You can see his tongue hanging out. Maybe because it's so freakin' hot here in Indio in Sept.


Broke Beak is our buddy all day, every day.


Chris and Chuck were at their new place on the River so we spent a wonderful weekend with them. The sunsets are amazing and views spectacular!


Being with them in the sunshine and warm water is so relaxing.




2 comments:

  1. So sorry I missed the trip to Salton Sea and Slab Town. NOT. :-) Miss you two! Thanks for sharing.

    ReplyDelete
  2. So sorry I missed the trip to Salton Sea and Slab Town. NOT. :-) Miss you two! Thanks for sharing.

    ReplyDelete